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Three days in Death Valley was the perfect way to see the park and fit in some epic hikes!
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DEATH VALLEY
Last winter I decided to get away from the cold north and head for warmer weather. Flying to Las Vegas, we spent our first day in Nevada, visiting Red Rock Canyon and hiked Turtlehead Peak before driving 2.5 hours to Death Valley National Park the following day.
The park is quite remote, located far from any major towns. Upon entering, we shortly came upon Zabriskie Point, a beautiful overlook showcasing the colorful geology of the park.
From here, we drove down into the valley for quite a ways and stopped at the Devil’s Golf Course. Wind and water had eroded the earth into jagged towers of rocks with minuscule, sharp salt spikes all over. It was said that “only the devil would play golf on such rough links.”
Next we continued on to Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the United States at 282 ft below sea level. This low spot in the valley causes what little rainfall the park receives to pool up and evaporate, leaving salt and minerals behind. From Badwater Basin we walked out quite a ways to the salt flats. It was breathtaking and also made one feel so insignificant in such a vast, desolate space.
We backtracked from Badwater Basin toward the entrance of the park, stopping along the way for a short hike to Natural Bridge, an arch eroded into the rocks.
Just before sunset, we drove down Artists Drive Scenic Loop for some colorful rocks. The park recommended visiting this area around sunrise or sunset for the best colors. This one-way road wound through the mountains and did not disappoint. We stopped at the Artists Palette overlook just as the sun set the sky aglow for an amazing display of Mother Nature. Afterward, we had an hour drive to Pahrump, Nevada, as there aren’t many accommodation options in the park, and this was the closest major town.
Telescope Peak & Rogers Peak
Day 2 was the big day we had planned. From Pahrump we had a nearly three-hour drive to the other side of Death Valley where the big mountains of the Panamint Range awaited. Crossing through the park, it was clear to see just how enormous this National Park is, as the road seemed to stretch endlessly toward the horizon. Eventually we crossed the valley and began winding our way up into the mountains where we reached Wildrose Charcoal Kilns. This is where our hike to Telescope Peak, the highest point in the park, would begin. Since it was February, the 1.5-mile road up to the actual trailhead was closed. Leaving the warm lower elevations behind, we strapped crampons onto our boots and set off.
1.5 miles up the road, we reached Mahogany Flats campground. The trailhead for Telescope Peak indicated seven miles to the summit while a service road up to the adjacent Rogers Peak split off nearby. Excited, we walked down the trail, sidling along an exposed, snowy ridge. The views were spectacular but my anxiety soon skyrocketed. Despite crampons and trekking poles, I feared a wrong step would send me tumbling down the icy mountainside. After only a half-mile, the stress and anxiety proved too much for me to handle and I made the decision to turn around.
Despite the setback, we were not deterred. We had read on AllTrails that it was possible to take the service road up to Rogers Peak and rejoin the trail to Telescope Peak, skipping the scary bits. Having returned to the trailhead, we veered off to the service road where we could see the weather station on top of Rogers Peak. The route appeared much safer.
To start, the service road was much more pleasant but as we climbed, the snow drifts soon covered the road, slowing us down considerably. We climbed steadily and carefully, eventually reaching the summit of Rogers Peak at 9,990 ft. The hike had taken considerably more time than we anticipated due to the snow.
Sitting on the concrete foundation of the weather station tower, we enjoyed a nice lunch, taking in the amazing views of Death Valley below us. We could see Badwater Basin far off on the valley floor as well as Artists Palette and Zabriskie Point. Way in the distance we could spot Charleston Peak, the highest point in Nevada. And behind us were the Sierra Nevadas and Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the continental U.S. But front and center was the stunningly beautiful Telescope Peak, towering over 1,000 feet above us at 11,049 ft. It looked so close and yet we knew there were several miles between us and its summit.
If it had been summer, the longer daylight hours would have allowed us time to traverse the ridge over to Telescope Peak. However, we knew we wouldn’t be able to reach the summit and return to the car before dark. Not wanting to hike down the treacherous snow drifts of the service road in the dark, we enjoyed the view and returned back the way we’d came.
Though the hike didn’t turn out the way we had planned, the views and experience did not disappoint. For anyone looking to attempt Telescope or Rogers Peak, check out the park’s website for more info.
Total Mileage: 9.6 miles
Mount Perry via Dantes Ridge
For our final day in Death Valley, we drove an hour from Nevada and returned to the park once more. We headed up to Dantes View for a fantastic overlook of the entire park. From the parking lot, an unmarked trail leads down Dantes Ridge for 4.5 miles to Mount Perry.
The hike was much easier than the day before as we walked down a nice gentle trail. The views were awesome and the rocks changed colors as we hiked along.
The hike became a little tricky near the summit with some rocky sections but nothing too difficult. The views on this hike alone were such a reward. The hike was 9 miles roundtrip and totally worth it. It was crazy to think that just the day before we were on the other side of the valley, high in the mountains, and now we were on the opposite side on an entirely different mountain range.
Overall, our three days in Death Valley were a success. I had not anticipated this national park to be so stunning and was thoroughly impressed. It’s definitely worth a visit in the winter for pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds!
For other popular hikes in the U.S., check out this article put together by outdoor company, Kühl.
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